In a couple of days I’m going to leave my beloved childhood city of Eilat and move to Jerusalem. Before I go, I want to tell you a story about Umm Rash-Rash. Now, what does that have to do with Eilat, you ask? Simple! Umm Rash-Rash was the original name of the area before it turned to Eilat.

If you happen to visit Eilat, you will probably see the mall that stands right next to the sea-line. That’s Mall Ayam. Beside it, to its south, lays a huge plaza. At the front of the plaza is an elevated area and on top of that area there are a small clay building and an interesting monument, displaying a bunch of people crowded around a flag pole and a person hanging an Israeli flag at the top of that pole. That’s Umm Rash-Rash Plaza. 

A few weeks ago I was going to the mall. I passed by the front of the plaza, while a father and his little girl passed by in front of me.

“Daddy, what’s this building?” the little girl pointed at the clay building.

The father didn’t reply. He was too busy staring at his phone.

The girl stopped and insisted. “Daddy, what’s this building?”

So the father had to take his eyes off his phone and look at the clay building that’s on Umm Rash-Rash Plaza. After a moment or two he mumbled: “Well, it’s just a plain old building,” and the two of them continued, without taking another glance at the building or the plaza.


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A sign next to the clay building

The truth is, the clay building was declared an Israeli national site in 1994, so it’s not just a plain old building. Actually, it’s the last building left out of five Mandatory buildings that made up a police station complex. The other four were demolished due to Eilat’s expansion and due to the fact that they weren’t declared on time as national sites.

But before I talk about the building, I want to share with you something interesting I found out just two weeks ago. “Rash” means “Strewing” in Arabic (اش). “Umm” means “Mother” in Arabic (that I already knew, but maybe you don’t). So I wondered two weeks ago why did they call Eilat, back in the old days, “Mother Strewing-Strewing”. That’s a wierd name. So I checked up the topic in many resources and found out that there’s a legend connected to this place:

Eilat, as you may or may not know, was part of the ancient route to the holy city of Mecca. The Muslim pilgrims walked all the way to Mecca, and their feet got swollen and hurt on the way. The area we refer to as “Umm Rash-Rash” was the residence of an old, wise woman, who gathered  herbs from the area and made medical powder out of them. Then she would strew the powder over the hurt feet and make them feel better. So those pilgrims started talking about that place on the way to Mecca, where they met “The Mother that Strews”, or better yet, “Umm Rash-Rash”.

That’s a nice tale, which not a lot know of, I suppose.

A more known story is that of the Raising of the Ink Flag, but maybe you haven’t heard of it either. That explains the monument next to the clay building.

In March 1949, we were almost done with the Independence war. The only thing left was to sign a cease-fire agreement with the Jordanians. But they wanted the Negev to be part of their territory, although the Negev was supposed to be ours according to the UN Partition Plan. Ben Gurion, the Prime Minister at the time, instructed the IDF to make it a fact that Israel is the rightful owner of the Negev (and of course, Eilat, which is situated in the Negev’s most northern spot). So the IDF started “Operation Uvda” (in Hebrew, “Uvda” means “Fact”) and started their way down to conquer Umm Rash-Rash.

I won’t bore you with all the details about the operation. I’ll just skip to the end. The first IDF company to arrive at Umm Rash-Rash found no one there. It seemed that the place was abandoned before they came. The only thing left were the five clay buildings of the Mandatory police station and a bare pole. The soldiers forgot the Israeli flag back home, so they had to be creative. The company’s secretary took a white sheet they had and painted the Israeli flag on it, with ink. Then the company’s commander went up the pole, which was not at all steady, and hung in on the top of the pole. Now Umm Rash-Rash, Eilat, was Israel’s territory.

The flag was replaced by a real one when another IDF company arrived two hours later. To this very day, no one knows where the Ink Flag is. We lost it.

Hope you have great fun in Eilat, now that you know some history about it!

You are more than welcome to take a look at my website about Israel – www.backpackisrael.com.

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